Retrodivas Fashion

Designers Deborah Lyons and Misha Nonoo

The images of 1940s and ’50s Americana have long captivated the imaginations of designers Misha Nonoo and Deborah Lyons. The elegance and glamour of iconic pin-ups of a bygone era, who began their careers on the boardwalks of Coney Island served as the inspiration that roused the nostalgic, daringly playful and effortlessly feminine images that comprise the Spring/Summer 2010 Nonoo Lyons collection.

A collection founded on principles of effortless grace, flawless craftsmanship and the finest European fabrics has been has expanded to include 12 styles. Fashioned from rubber coated tweeds (Miss Demember), leopard print water proof taffetas (Miss August), cobalt blue silks (Miss October), and bright white cotton faille (Miss May), Nonoo Lyons jackets are made exclusively by local tailors in New York City.

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Tom Ford at the 2010 Academy Awards

We all know how I feel about Tom Ford. But in the words of Tim Gunn, I’m concerned. I’m not digging the hair, but more alarming is the amount of botox that is currently occupying his forehead. I’m all for giving things a tweak, but come on, Tom. Those eyes are too sexy to hide.

The Bombshell Manual of Style

This isn’t really a manual, per se, but it’s an interesting read nonetheless. The author, Laren Stover, did an incredible amount of research on “bombshells” – think Elizabeth Taylor, Marilyn Monroe, Greta Garbo, and…Kim Basinger? Whatever – I think this research involved watching a lot of old movies and sorting out the style that these actresses portrayed both on the screen and off.

There is a lot of stereotyping in The Bombshell Manual of Style, but I found myself nodding along more often than not. The Bombshell Fragrances list is exhaustive and pretty accurate, as well as some of the “road tested” outfits. The illustrations are by the always-talented and extremely popular Ruben Toledo and is worth flipping through just for those.

It gives off a bit of “single lady in the city” vibe, but if you can get past that (decorate my apartment in pink and white? I wouldn’t do that even if I was single and living in NYC), the information here is quite good. It certainly encourages you to slip on some silk pajamas, grab some champagne and your toy poodle, and settle in for a read.

Unfortunately, all I had on had was a leopard print snuggie and two cats. But that’s okay – I think I’m still bombshell material.

New York design team Lutz and Patmos have collaborated with Archbishop Desmond Tutu, a South African activist who has been instrumental in the fight against apartheid, AIDS, and poverty, on a sweater that will benefit the Desmond Tutu Peace Center.

The signature sweater, featuring a relaxed fit, band collar, and detachable necklace is available in three colors: tutu pink, black, and eggshell. $40 of the purchase price goes directly to the charity, and $30 of the necklace price goes to the Hillcrest Aids Centre Trust.

You can find the sweater online at LutzandPatmos.com, as well as Barneys and Kirna Zabete

It wasn’t so long ago that the appearance of this open-mouthed crocodile was an entrance ticket into the stylish cliques of my middle school. If one sported the little gator (we called them “Izods” back in the day), it was generally assumed by the rest of the population that you had access to serious fashion, including Jordaches and Polo shirts. If one had the collar turned up (and these days they call that a “popped” collar, although I don’t remember using that term in the mid-80s, but I could be wrong), one was really riding the crest of fashion, almost enough to be quite New Wave.

We didn’t know that it was a luxury tennis brand. We just knew that it was desirable and stylish, and girls really needed one in pink. In fact, if you could layer that pink one with, say, a white one underneath, we were pretty certain that it was the best offering to the fashion gods one could imagine.

We also liked parachute pants, but that is for another time.

Now, however, I’m older and so much wiser – no parachute pants for me – and I can appreciate the backstory of the Lacoste brand. How Rene Lacoste was THE tennis star in the twenties, who always had that certain something that set him apart. I can also appreciate how the brand was among the first to bring luxury to the masses.

This book illuminates the contemporary relevance of the legacy of René Lacoste, who, in his glory days at the end of the Roaring Twenties, was the best tennis player in the world. A conqueror, an innovator, a designer, he always displayed a certain flair. And those qualities endure. A story about fluidity, softness, comfort, the sun and the sea, endurance. A story about what Christophe Lemaire calls a “democratic luxuriousness,” perhaps a luxuriousness of detail. A story about a sensation, a light, a color, a texture, a pattern, the freedom of a body in motion and at rest. A story about the Club collection, the Sport collection, the women’s collections; about windowpane check, contrast piping, stretch knit polo shirts: “a world of design with a human dimension.”

This book is the story (or one story) of a culture that gives voice to many personal stories—the story of a transgenerational and transcultural cult brand; of a laughing crocodile beloved by children; of a breath, an emotion, a moment to be savored; of well-being; of vitality. The story of everything we’ve done and of everything we have yet to do, all thanks to a single pensée, a single thought, that inspires expression in every form.

And really, I can’t explain it any better than that.

Lacoste: The Element of Style is now available for pre-order from Amazon.com, and will be available at all the exclusive Assouline locations, including the Paris boutique and the boutique in the Plaza Hotel in New York City.

Erin Fetherston found her inspiration in iconic Chelsea girl Nico, and gave us flowing dresses with a sharp rock and roll tailored edge. Looks included everything from flowing chiffon dresses to slimming shifts. Spring lilac, nude, and sage were offset by a sharp white/black/orange contrast. Lace, chiffon, leather and velvet all bring some edge and/or softness to the collection.

Watch the slideshow below for a taste of the collection. All photographs are by Thomas Kletecka for Collective Edit.

Designer Zac Posen debuted his newest collection, Z Spoke, at Saks Fifth Avenue on February 24, 2010. The big news, however, is that this collection goes up to a size 14, and will be expanding to include a size 16 in the fall.

This is different from his traditional runway collections, which only go up to a size 12 in stores. “It’s a dream of my life to be able to make a collection that can work for so many different kinds of women.”

Read more: Zac Posen Always Dreamed of Dressing Size 16, and Now He Can — The Cut http://nymag.com/daily/fashion/2010/02/zac_posen_always_dreamed_of_dr.html#ixzz0gZWSQB2z

It’s been a number of years since I’ve been in Paris, and I don’t have any immediate plans to get there in the future, but that doesn’t stop me from keeping a list of places that I must visit. Since I’ve seen all the amazing historical places as well as the museums (yes, the Louvre is lovely, but do visit the Musee de Orsay – it’s well worth the visit), mostly what I’m interested in is cultural. And of course, shopping.

Comptoir des Cotonnier dropped me a note recently to let me know they had moved into a new place on the Left Bank, and it sounds absolutely lovely. Meant to feel like a Parisian apartment, the new space is dressed in white, light gray, and taupe. It has arched ceilings, sofas, a real library stocked with fashion and design books, a personalized playlist, and a chevron wooden floor. The lighting is soft, with table and suspended lighting, and the furniture only adds to the feeling of being in a plush, intimate atmosphere.

It makes me want to book a flight to Paris. If only!

Last year, Vogue, the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), and NYC & Company banded together to bring us the very first Fashion’s Night Out on September 11. Fashon’s Night Out (FNO) was created and developed to celebrate fashion and boost the retail sector during the economic downturn. Although no one was terribly sure how the event would be received, it was proclaimed a resounding success the next day. There were so many activities going on in New York City that one just couldn’t make it to all of them, and believe me, I tried!

This year, FNO is back and most likely will be bigger than ever. The event is scheduled for September 10, 2010, and CBS will be on hand to record not only the event but what goes on behind the scenes from the designers to the sales staff who rely on fashion for their economic survival.

“While New York City is the epicenter of this event,” says CBS executive producer Susan Zirinsky, “cities all over the world took the baton last year and ran with it, and 2010 promises to be even bigger. The message is clear: Responsible spending can breathe new life into the economy, and that means jobs. Fashion’s Night Out is a self-styled stimulus package by the fashion industry that has ignited a global movement.”

To stay up to date on the FNO event for 2010, be sure to check out their website at http://www.fashionsnightout.com.